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Plate II · iii · a · The City

Paris

Four houses, three of them within a walk of the Parc Monceau, and not a queue among them.

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Paris rooftops in flat winter light, seen from a mansard window
Plate II · iii · a · The Eighth

The good houses in Paris are the ones that were never meant to be museums, and still resent it slightly.

A day, properly arranged
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Not a Tuesday. Never a Tuesday.

The entries

All four visited, all four kept.
An empty gallery room in a Parisian hôtel particulier, morning light from the right
Interior · Camondo, first floor

Four rooms in, you stop looking at the objects and start looking at how the family arranged their morning.

FEBRUARY, 10:20AM
Still on the list in Paris
Not yet entries. Kept here so I cannot quietly forget them.
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Notes for Paris

Camondo and Jacquemart-André are eleven minutes apart on foot, and doing both in one morning is the single best hour-and-a-half this directory can offer you. Do Camondo first; it is the quieter house and deserves an undistracted eye.

Moreau is across the river in spirit but not in fact — a twenty-minute walk north-east, and worth saving for a wet afternoon when the drawing cabinets feel like shelter rather than showing off.

The city pass does not cover the private foundations, which is where everything good in Paris actually is. Buy tickets individually and stop resenting it.

← France Last walked in February 2026, in the rain, which suits it. Plate 011 · Camondo →